The Traveling Cartoonist: |
I've discovered that there are "his" and "hers" ways of appreciating German Christmas markets. His, or to be more precise, my, method is to head straight for the sausage and gluhwein (mulled wine) huts. Hers -- my friend Kristen's -- is to peruse the market, purchase a few items, and amble over to the pastry hut.
This technique got us through five markets, in as many cities, in about a week. Our progress was peaceful, harmonious and surprisingly inexpensive. We spent more on edible and drinkable items than we did on souvenirs from the other huts. And we avoided the expense of eating lunch in restaurants.
Our tour started in Munich on Thanksgiving day morning. Struggling to shake off jet-lag, we saw the final preparations being made for the Christmas market in the Marienplatz, Munich's main square.
The Marienplatz is dominated by the spires of its neo-gothic "new" Rathaus (town hall), and the solitary medieval tower that stands over the "old" Rathaus. In the sprawling square below, rows of wooden huts had been erected. Because the market was scheduled to open the following day, many of the huts were still shuttered. However, dozens of workers were busy festooning huts with fir cuttings, colored lights, and blue and white striped covers.
I gave Kristen a weary grin. Our jet-lag seemed worthwhile. And although neither of us usually gets excited by Christmas, the preparations for the market, and the large snowflakes drifting down, put us in a festive mood.
Christkindlmarkt, literally Christ Child Markets, have been a tradition in some southern Germany for centuries. In recent years, however, markets have sprung up in many countries. From late November through Christmas Eve, markets are held everyday in the towns' main squares.
Around noon, the fronts of the huts are swung open, revealing merchandise is heaped in boxes, dangled in trays, and hung from celings. Each hut carries a different line of Christmas related products. We found huts dedicated to Hand crafted ornaments, fancy candles, multi-colored candy, nativity figures, festive gingerbread, nitted gloves, fir wreathes, woolen hats, costume jewelry, teddy bears, sparkling glasses, and all manner of Christmas ornaments.
The Christkindlmarkt sparkle with warmth and fascination, creating a glowing focal point in the centers of historic cities that - despite their charms - would otherwise be bleak and chilly in the depths of winter.
During our week's vacation, we visited four cities that were all less than two hours by train from Munich. Naturally, they all had markets. By the time our journey was over, we had become attuned to subtle differences between the markets, such as different local sausages and pastries. .
Sausage stands are a fixture in German and Austrian towns, regardless of the season. Many types of wurst (sausages) are grilled at the stands, and served piping hot on a fresh roll, with either mustard or ketchup. My favorite might have been the feuerwurst (fire sausage) that was as spicy it was hot.
Gluhwein is spiced, hot wine that steams out of china mugs on cold, damp days. Everywhere we went, people were congregated about the Gluhwein huts, laughing and joking as they warmed their fingers and heated their insides.
On our tour, the markets were our central point of reference in every city. After some sightseeing, we'd visit the market, where I'd sample the sausages, wash them down with gluhwein and wonder what pastry Kristen would find. She would take a while to get to the pastry huts, it must be said, as she wanted to see what trinkets and decorations she could buy as presents.
Throughout the afternoon, we'd intersperse our visits to baroque churches, gothic castles and renaissance palaces with visits to various market huts including, of course, the pastry and gluhwein huts.
Besides Munich, we went to Nuremberg and Regensberg in Bavaria, and Salzburg and Innsbruck in Austria. Many people go to Nuremberg precisely because it has the oldest and the largest Christmas market in Germany. Personally, I found it a little too large and commercial. Double decker tour buses bring thousands of visitors daily, and the throng of people does not create the most relaxed or convivial ambiance.
Regensburg's small market is a perfect antidote to Nuremberg's. It's close to an eleventh century cathedral and a Roman tower. Even though the market only had about twenty huts, it offered a greater variety of pastry than any other. Kristen was particularly delighted by the dumplings in vanilla sauce and the cherry strudel. (She was also thrilled by an extraordinarily snug pair of knitted woolen socks that she bought.)
Salzburg celebrates Christmas with music. Advent concerts resonate through its palaces, and organ music rises in its baroque churches. And, as in every other season, the programs usually include Mozart. Its main Christmas market is in the Domplatz, a neat, rectangular square just outside the Cathedral, and beneath the hills. Sipping our Gluhwein, we gazed over the spires, cupolas and steeples while the church bells chimed.
Innsbruck's main market is squeezed into two thin squares that intersect under a fifteenth century oriel window known as the golden roof. The doughnut hut had the longest lines we'd seen. The large, flat doughnuts, known as Kiaghl, were deep fried and sprinkled with baker's sugar or smothered in sauerkraut (the locals favorite).
Because of the crowds, I took refuge under the thick arches that surround the square and waited for Kristen. As darkness fell from the mountains, carolers in red, blue and gold costumes marched onto a balcony high above the square, and began to sing. In the twilight, beside a giant Christmas tree, they looked like the carved figures of a glockenspeil. "Merry Christmas," I greeted Kristen, as she approached with our doughnuts.
Sidebar:
Thanksgiving is an excellent time to visit Bavaria and Austria because airfares tend to be relatively cheap, and accommodation is easy to find. Many major U.S. and international carriers serve Munich. A very efficient train service links Munich to Regensburg, Nuremburg, Salzburg and Innsbruck. Round trip fares between any of these points ranges between about $60 to $100 per person. While it's advisable to make hotel reservations in Munich, it's not necessary to do this in the other cities. Finally, the Christmas markets open around the last weekend in November, and continue until Christmas eve.